16 Fall Chores to Prepare for Winter

1. If you have a fireplace or wood-stove, stock up on your wood supply as early as possible.
2. Have your heating system serviced if you haven't done it in a while. This includes replacing the filters before you turn on the heat.
3. Check the roof and make any small roof repairs now.
4. Clean the gutters and check the downspouts and splash blocks.
5. Check the smoke alarms and carbon-monoxide detectors. Replace batteries.
6. Trees, bushes, and other foundation plantings need to be trimmed away from the house. Any dead or diseased branches or trees need to be removed.
7. Fertilize lawn with a high phosphorus mixture to promote root growth over the winter, grass will green up sooner come spring.
8. Weatherize your home. The US Department of Energy says if you can pull a piece of paper out of a closed door without tearing you're losing energy, so check and replace weather stripping on all doors and windows. Don't forget to check your external and garage doors.
9. Set up your 72 hour stock of emergency provisions. The Red Cross has a comprehensive list of recommended items.
10. Remove screens, clean and repair before putting them away. Replace with storm windows if you don't have a dual-pane windows.
11. Quiet kitchen cabinets. Soon your kitchen will be bustling with holiday dinners, so don't let squeaky cupboards get in the way. Clean, lubricate, or replace non-working hinges or cabinet doors.
12. Maintain your hardwood floors as they are an enduring investment that can up your resale value.
13. Touch up paint on railings and decks.
14. Sprinkler systems need to be blown free of water to prevent damage from freezing.
15. Put up your Christmas lights now while the weather is beautiful! You will be grateful come Thanksgiving time, when the weather turns cold and windy.
16. Finally deep clean now to take advantage of the beautiful fall weather and face the approaching holiday season with a clean and comfortable home!

How to Clean Your Baseball Cap

Different Ways to Clean a Baseball Cap

Always check for a label first. Most caps made in the last 10 to 15 years are a combination of cotton and polyester with a plastic brim. Some of these might be comprised of cotton twill or a jersey mesh, both of which tend to be durable and colorfast. Newer cap materials can better withstand temperature and agitation and plastic brims will hold their form. More care is needed for older caps because their wool fabric can shrink easily and their cardboard brims are easily corruptible. Always follow the manufacturer's cleaning directions stated on the label since, uh, they made it.

Before you clean a baseball cap, test for color fastness. Apply a small amount of mild detergent to a wet cloth. Rub this gently onto a non-visible spot on the inside rim. Rinse the spot with cool water and dab at it with a clean cloth. If there is a change in color or color transfer to the cloth, you may not want to risk fading the colors. Instead, try using cool or lukewarm water with a soft-bristle brush to get the problem spots. If there is no color transfer, the cap will be fine to use with this detergent and you may proceed.

Use a washing machine to clean a baseball cap. Often, the sweat and oils from your hair and scalp slightly stain the inside rim. If your cap passed the color fastness test, use a stain remover or an enzyme-based laundry spray on problem spots as a form of prewashing. Let the cap sit for a few minutes before simply adding it to like-colored laundry. To avoid damage and shrinkage to the cap, use a delicate cycle with warm or cool water.

Clean wool baseball caps by hand. If your wool cap is older, it will have a cardboard brim that could be weakened or dissolve if it gets too wet. Brush the cap first with a dry clean cloth. Then wash your Wooly gently with cool water (not the brim), a clean cloth, and, if necessary, a wool-designated detergent applied to the cloth. A soft-bristle brush for gentle washing is also helpful. Next, rinse out the cloth with cool water and use the cloth to rinse the cap clean. Afterwards, carefully use a towel to absorb some of the moisture from the cap.

Now let the clean baseball cap air dry.Do not use a clothes dryer! Some people use a wig holder for the drying process, but really, anything somewhat spherical should work fine. There are also plastic cap molds that work great and are not expensive. You may also use your own head as this object, given that your unique melon is what you want it to form to anyway. Wool caps especially will form to your head's exact circumference. But beware; there are few things that are as distracting as wet wool on your noggin.

Many people suggest cleaning baseball caps in a dishwasher. Dishwashers tend to be too hot and most dishwashing detergents contain bleach and other harsh chemicals. This combination would inevitably send your cap into early retirement. If you are intent on using a dishwasher, use a non-bleach detergent and place the cap on the top rack to avoid over-agitation. Never use the dishwasher's drying function—this could cause the ever-feared shrinkage.

How To Clean Shoes

How to clean white shoes. For cleaning white shoes, or to clean tennis shoes or other white athletic shoes, often the only things you need are a rag, some warm water, detergent, an old soft toothbrush, and some whitening toothpaste. Start by removing the laces and soaking them in some warm water and laundry detergent. Next, grab a soft rag, dip it in some warm warm water mixed with detergent, squeeze out the excess, and start wiping. Re-dip often to rinse the dirt out of the rag. After that's done, put a little whitening toothpaste on your old soft toothbrush and gently brush all of the white spots on your shoes in a circular motion. Do this for the soles as well as the uppers. When done, use a clean rag dipped in fresh water to wipe the toothpaste off with. Finally, remove your laces from the water/detergent mix, rinse them in the sink, allow them and the shoes to dry, re-lace, and enjoy.

How to clean leather shoes. Cleaning leather shoes that are smooth is really quite easy. If the shoes have laces, remove those first. Second, grab a soft shoe brush and use it to go over the entire surface of the shoe. This will help remove dust and dried-on dirt. After that, put about two cups of room temperature water into a bowl and add one good squirt of gentle pH-neutral hand soap like Method or Ecover. Gently stir in the soap. Grab a rag, dip it in the mixture, and squeeze out the excess so that it is only slightly damp. Next, re-dipping frequently and always using a clean section of rag, go over the entire outer surface of the shoe. Once it's been completely wiped down, go over it again with a new rag dipped in straight fresh water to remove the soap. Using one more soft rag, wipe the shoes dry. Once dry, be certain to recondition the leather and, if desired, give it a good polishing.

How to clean suede shoes. People, for no good reason, get nervous when it comes to cleaning suede shoes. It's actually pretty easy. For general dirtiness or muddiness, let the shoes dry first and start with a clean towel or a suede brush, and go over the entire shoe with it. Make sure to run the towel or brush in one direction only. This will not only raise the nap, it will also help remove dirt. After brushing, go over any bad spots with a suede eraser. This will transfer most spots from the shoe to the eraser. For scuffs, rub back and forth over the scuff with your suede brush. If you're trying to remove water marks, wet the entire shoe down with a damp rag, wipe any excess water off with a sponge, stuff the insides of the shoes with a shoehorn, white tissue, or blank newsprint so they retain their shape, allow the shoes to dry slowly in an area without sunlight or direct heat, and finally, once dry, brush them in one direction with a suede brush to restore the nap. Always apply suede protector to your shoes after cleaning.

How to clean canvas shoes. A pair of canvas shoes is one of life's little necessities. They're cheap, comfortable, easy to care for, and easy to clean. For dirty canvas shoes, start by removing the laces and clapping the soles of the shoes together outside to remove excess dirt. Fill a 2-cup measuring cup with warm water, add about a teaspoon of mild dish soap (Seventh Generation), and drop the laces in for a good soak. Next, grab a soft-bristled brush like those used for cleaning suede, and brush every surface of you canvas shoes to remove surface dust. After that, rinse your shoes inside and out in the sink with warm water. Next, make a thick paste of baking soda and water (you will only need enough to fill a one-cup measuring cup) and mix in about a tablespoon of mild detergent. Use an old, soft toothbrush and your shoe cleaning solution to gently scrub at the canvas. Use plenty of the cleaner, and you'll have more than enough. Once clean, rinse the shoes thoroughly in the sink with cool water. Stuff the shoes with white tissue or blank newsprint, and set them somewhere out of the sun and away from direct heat to dry. Finally, remove your laces from the soap and water, work as much of the dirt out of them as you can, rinse them, and lay them out to dry.

How to clean satin shoes. Alright, I'm not gonna lie to you—cleaning satin shoes is dangerous business. Satin is an extremely delicate fabric that can be easily damaged by attempting to clean it by yourself. For this reason, I strongly recommend you get them cleaned professionally. However, if you want to wash shoes of satin yourself, I have some suggestions for you. First, grab a nylon stocking, put it on your hand, and wipe your shoes down with it in a circular motion to remove surface dust and dirt. If more cleaning is needed after this, spray your shoes down really well with seltzer water. Often this is enough. If, however, it is not, fill a large mixing bowl with cool water and gently mix in a couple tablespoons of gentle dish soap like Seventh Generation or Method, submerge the shoes one at a time, allow them to soak for five minutes, remove them, and scrub them down as gently as possible with the softest bristled brush you can find. Rinse the shoes with cool water to remove all the soap, stuff the insides with plain white tissues, paper towels, or blank newsprint so they'll hold their shape, and set them somewhere out of the sun and away from direct heat to dry. Many people, rather than risking damage to their satin shoes, choose instead to have them dyed a darker color.

How to clean smelly shoes. Regardless of what your shoes are made of, one thing is inevitable—eventually, they're gonna stink. And, as everyone knows, stinky shoes are gross. If you don't give a rip about learning how to wash shoes and just want to know how to deodorize those dogs, this is one of the simplest things you can do to care for shoes. First, locate your shoes. If you can't find them, close your eyes and follow your nose. Second, find some baking soda. Third, pour a few tablespoons of baking soda into each shoe. Fourth, go outside and shake 'em up so the baking soda gets everywhere inside. Try hard to keep as much of the soda in the shoes as possible. Fifth, let them sit overnight with the baking soda in them. Sixth, go back outside and shake the baking soda out of them. Seventh, bask in the freshness that are your shoes.

More Tips for Washing Shoes

Saddle soap, which generally contains a mild soap plus lanolin, beeswax, glycerin, and neatsfoot oil is frequently and highly recommended to clean and condition shoes of leather.

For really stubborn stains on suede shoes, rubbing gently with super fine grit sandpaper will often remove them. Keep in mind that this will probably leave a lighter-colored patch on your shoes. Also keep in mind that a light patch is often preferable to a stain.

Apply a weather-proofing spray before wearing leather or suede shoes and every time after cleaning.

Never put shoes in the dryer. The heat can damage shoe adhesive, and the tumbling, while generally safe for cats, can scuff and damage your shoes.

While I do not recommend it can damage the adhesives that hold shoes together, many people will wash tennis shoes and canvas shoes in the washer. If you feel you must, wash them along with a load of laundry (sheets, towels) and encase them in their own pillowcase or mesh bag.

A 50/50 solution of white vinegar and salt is commonly used for washing shoes. It can be dabbed gently onto suede or canvas with a soft rag, cotton ball, or cotton swab to remove stains. After spot washing, rinse the area by dipping a clean white rag in distilled water, ringing out most of the water, and gently wiping the spot.

DO NOT use oven cleaner, drain cleaner, toilet cleaner, or bleach to clean shoes with. These are highly caustic chemicals that will break down fabrics and adhesives, and seriously diminish the life span of your shoes.

Baby wipes work very well for cleaning the soles of shoes.

Never dry shoes in the sun. It can cause fading, over drying, and cracking.

How to Clean Brass

Brass is an alloy (a mixture of metals) made from melting copper with a small amount of zinc (usually 10 40% of the final product). This alloy has become very popular due to its strength, beauty, malleability, resistance to corrosion, and its ability to hold up against extreme temperatures. It's also quite forgiving in the casting process. If a mistake is made during casting, it's relatively easy to melt it back down and try again.

For these reasons brass is understandably quite popular. The ancient Romans were probably the first to make and use brass extensively. They used brass to make coins, jewelry, decorations, and adornments for armor. Due to its anti-corrosive properties, it was later used in ship production for its ability to hold up against water and salt. With all this in mind, it's no small wonder that brass is still so widely used today. Nowadays, it's used in everything from wall clocks to trim around a fireplace to statues. When it comes to cleaning brass—be it an ancient Roman artifact or, I don't know, a doorknob—people get flummoxed. It's a beautiful metal, and the last thing you want to do is cause any damage to it. Luckily, it's easy as all get out to do and to do it naturally. There are numerous brass cleaning methods that use nothing but non-hazardous kitchen ingredients and, depending on the method and the amount of tarnish, a little elbow grease. In this article, I will fully cover my preferred method of cleaning brass and mention in brief several other well-trusted methods.

Cleaning Brass Naturally

Before you set to cleaning your brass, make certain that what you are cleaning is indeed made of brass. I know this sounds like a no-brainer, but I'm serious. There is a very simple test. First, go to the kitchen and pull a magnet off the fridge. Next, put the magnet on the piece of “brass” in question. If the magnet will not stick to it, you are indeed dealing with brass. If the magnet sticks, there is a good chance that what you have is a piece of brass-plated iron or steel. If this is the case, I would recommend stopping after the next step.

Go to the kitchen sink and get to work. Fill the sink with just enough lukewarm water to submerge the brass object in and mix in some gentle liquid dish detergent. If the object is lacquered or just brass plated and you wish to keep it that way, dip a soft cotton rag into the soap and water, ring it out as well as you can so that it is only slightly damp, and gently wipe the surface clean. If the object is not lacquered, start by soaking it for a few minutes. After a soak, use a cotton rag to wash it. Don't be afraid to apply a little pressure. Use a soft bristled toothbrush to get in the cracks and detailing. After you're done, have a look at it. If that did the trick, you can skip the next few steps.

In a non-aluminum pot, boil water with a couple teaspoons each of baking soda and washing soda. Do this only if your brass is lacquered and you need to remove it. Very often the lacquer on brass wears off or becomes cracked. When this happens, the brass is exposed to the air, becomes oxidized, and thus tarnish is born. There are two methods for boiling your brass. First, boil the hell out of it until all the lacquer comes off. Otherwise, submerge the brass object in the boiling water for a few minutes and then remove it carefully. When the brass heats up, it expands; as it cools, it shrinks again but the layer of lacquer does not. You should be able to peel the lacquer away in chunks.

Create your own brass polish. This is a ridiculously easy process. First, find a lemon. Great. Now cut it in half, dig out the seeds and squeeze all the juice out of it and into a bowl. Next, find yourself some table salt or baking soda. Doesn't matter which; either will work fine. Slowly stir the salt or soda into the lemon juice until a paste consistency is reached. Now that you have your brass cleaner, use a soft cotton cloth to apply it to the brass. Using the same rag, going with the grain of the metal, work it gently into the brass to remove tarnish. Salt and soda act as a light abrasive, so don't push too hard. If you're really concerned, or the item is brass plated, just go with the lemon juice and skip the salt/soda. Use a soft-bristled toothbrush to clean the crevices.

Make sure you removed all the tarnish and get your brass good and dry. Once the brass polishing procedure is completed, rinse away all the lemon-flavored brass polish. Take a good look at your work. If you find some spots that you missed, just go ahead and hit them with some of your leftover brass cleaner. Be sure to rinse again. When you are certain you're done, get a clean cotton cloth and dry the brass as quickly and as well as you can. Brass retains water spots something terrible. Using a new and totally dry cotton towel, or better yet, a microfiber cloth, buff your brass 'til it shines all purdy-like.

Protect your brass and make it shine.Alright, one more step. To help protect your hard work and make it so you don't have to go through this quite so often, give your brass a little protective barrier. For this, I recommend a little olive oil. Dampen a soft cotton cloth with your olive oil of choice and brush your brass with it. Apply as lightly as possible. I've also heard lemon oil works well for this. I prefer oiling to re-lacquering simply because it's a little more environmentally friendly. Even though lacquer is a natural product if you can find it pure, it's still quite processed and generally over-packaged. Besides all that, brass is a natural antibacterial. If you lacquer it, that property is diminished. Anyway, let's see how we did. Roll your cursor over the picture to the right.

More Natural Ways to Clean Brass

Who knew cleaning brass could be so easy? There are just so many ways to do it safely and naturally without the use of scary chemicals that oftentimes strip away the top layer of metal. That stripping can eventually cause the intricacies of your brass to lose definition. The method outlined above is just my own personal preference. If you are curious about other methods, just have a look down here. The secret ingredient to all of these household brass cleaners is a weak acid with a pH somewhere in the area of 3 to 4. For all of these methods, rinse well and buff with a soft clean cloth or micro fiber cloth.

Ketchup! Yeah, baby. I'm talkin' about good ol' Sauce Americana. Sounds too good to be true, you say? Oh, yeah. I know. But really, just smear some ketchup all over your dirty brass, let it sit for a few minutes, and wash it off.

Worcestershire sauce. It just keeps getting better. Same as with the ketchup: wipe it on, let the acidity of the stuff work its magic, wash it off, and voila! Clean brass. Just be sure to rinse it off really well. It might take a couple of tries.

White vinegar and salt. Is there nothing vinegar can't do? Pour vinegar over your brass and then sprinkle it with salt. It's supposed to work great. Vinegar can also be used at full strength. Wet a soft cloth with it and wipe down the brass.

Yogurt. The lactic acid does the trick. Use a spatula to coat your brass in yogurt. Let it sit long enough for the yogurt to dry, and then buff it off with a soft dry cloth. Rinse the heck out of it. Turns out dairy products stink when they sit out too long.

Milk and water. Speaking of lactic acid, you can simmer your tarnished brass in a 50/50 solution of milk and water. Simmering times will vary depending on the extent of tarnish. Again, make sure to rinse it off really well, as rotten milk stinks.

More lemons (or limes). If the piece of brass being polished is not very intricate, it works well to simply cut a lemon or lime in half, sprinkle some salt or baking soda on the sliced end, and rub the brass with it. You may need to reapply the salt/soda. Rub with the grain of the metal.

Rust Stains In My Husband's Dress Shirt!

My husband left a little watch battery in his nice shirt pocket, and it went through the wash! To our dismay, there were a bunch of rust stains around the pocket when it came out of the wash. I treated it with my laundry stain remover, and ran it through the wash again. There was absolutely no improvement!

I was desperate and willing to try anything at this point, because the shirt was ruined otherwise. So, I got out my CLR Bathroom & Kitchen Cleaner and sprayed it on the nice shirt. Every time I went into the laundry room, I sprayed the shirt again. I am in the laundry room 3-4 times per day, so it was getting treated by the cleaner very often! In about a week, the rust spots had all dissolved out of the shirt! Then I ran it through the wash to clean it once more. I was really surprised that with that many treatments, the CLR chemical did not ruin the shirt or run the colors at all. My husband's nice dress shirt is back to wearable condition.

Now, I am not guaranteeing that CLR will not ruin your fabrics. PLEASE test a small, inconspicuous spot on your clothing or fabric before using it as a stain remover. Or, like me, be willing to ruin the fabric because this is your last option!

Good luck getting your rust stains out!

Gift Giving: Is someone on your list hard to buy for?

Having a hard time getting a gift for someone on your list who has everything? Consider giving the gift of clean from Happy Homes.

Please go to our website at www.HappyHomesMaids.com to read about our gift certificates. Plus, we will give your gift certificate recipient a $10 off coupon for their first clean, and $10 off their next 2 cleans if they decide to start service with us. Coupons are for new clients only.

Routine Cleaning & First Aid

DUST CAREFULLY with a soft cloth, following the grain pattern of the wood. Use an old T-shirt, baby diaper or cheesecloth that has been laundered.

DUST OFTEN to remove everyday abrasive particles from wood surfaces.

CONSIDER CLEANING with mild non-alkaline soap and water. Use the suds in a damp sponge or cloth, but be sure to pre-test the solution on an out-of-sight section to make sure it doesn't damage the finish. Dry immediately with a soft cloth and buff lightly, following the grain.

DON'T WAX: or use any polish that contains any silicones! Catalyzed heat and moisture resistant finishes don't need additional polish.

Here are some common problems and ways for you to correct them. With all of these solutions, try a small area first to assure that the remedy doesn't damage the finish.

WATER MARK RINGS: Rings are often in the wax, not the finish. Cover the stain with a clean, thick blotter, press down with a warm iron, and repeat. Or try rubbing with salad oil, mayonnaise, or white toothpaste. Then wipe dry.

WHITE MARKS: Rub with cloth dipped in a mixture of cigarette ashes and lemon juice or salad oil. Or rub with a cloth dipped in lighter fluid, followed by a mixture of rottenstone and salad oil. Wipe dry.

HEAT MARKS: Rub gently along the grain using a dry steel wool soap pad, extra-fine (0000) steel wool, or a cloth dampened with camphorated oil mineral spirits.

STICKING PAPER: Dampen the paper thoroughly with salad oil, wait five minutes and rub along the grain with extra-fine (0000) steel wool. Wipe dry.

WAX OR GUM: Harden the substance by holding an ice cube wrapped in cloth against it. Pry off with a fingernail. Rub the area with extra-fine (0000) steel wool dipped in mineral spirits. Wipe dry.